Battambang BuzZ

Battambang City / Town Map 2012. large printable file

2012-02-06T15:10:00.002+07:00

Battambang Hotels / Guesthouses. Cambodia.

2012-02-06T11:23:00.005+07:00

Battambang Accommodation
click on website link to view

Battambang Resort
http://www.battambangresort.com/
Bungalow style accommodation in a countryside setting. Close to the City.

Bus Stop Guesthouse
http://www.busstopcambodia.co/
Under new western management.
Centrally located.
Clean rooms and friendly service.
See Battambang City Map.

Banan Hotel
www.bananhotel.doodlekit.com
Very comfortable centrally located hotel with swimming pool.
See Battambang City Map. North end of town.

Coconut House
http://www.thecoconuthouse.net/
South of town. Quite location.
See Battambang City Map.

Chhaya Hotel
www.chhayahotel.com
Cheap backpacker option. Centre of town
See Battambang City Map.

Golden Palace Hotel
http://w ww.goldenpalacehotels.com/
Located on the south east riverside.

Golden Land Hotel
http://www.visittobattambang.com/
Located on the east riverside road. Central.
See Battambang City Map.

Holiday Hotel
http://www.holidayhotel.bb.com/
Centrally located.

King Hotel
http://www.kingbattambanghotel.com/
Centrally located on the east river road.
Stella views of the riverfront and beyond town.
See Battambang City Map.

Khemara Hotel
http://www.khemarahotel.com/
competitively priced considering the facilities.
There are two locations.
One north and one south of town.
See Battambang City Map.

La Villa
www.lavilla-battambang.com
Stylish colonial villa. A gem of the bygone era.
Period fixtures. Central on east river road.
See Battambang City Map.

Lotus Hotel
http://www.battambanglotushotelcambodia.com/
Hotel on the east side of town.
competitively priced.
See Battambang City Map.

Maisons Wat Kor
www.maisonswatkor.com
Traditional wooden houses
in the heart of a Khmer village.
Swimming pool and Restaurant.
2km from the centre of Battambang.

President Hotel
http://www.presidentbattambangcity.com/
Large hotel on the east side of town.
See Battambang City Map.

Royal Hotel & Asia Hotel & Star Hotel
http://www.asrhotel.com.kh/
Popular cheap backpacker choices owned by the same family.
Centrally located. See Battambang City Map.

Seng Hout Hotel
http://www.senghouthotel.com/
Very popular travellers choice. Reasonable price.
Centrally located. See Battambang City Map.

Sanctuary Villa
http://www.sanctuarycambodia.com/
Luxury bungalows in a garden setting.
Situated in a quite location north of town.
See Battambang City Map.

Stung Sangke Hotel
http://www.stungsangkehotel.com/
Large luxury hotel at the north end of town.
See Battambang City Map.

Vy Chhe Hotel
http://www.vychhehotel.com/
Located on the east river road
central location
See Battambang City Map.

Memoria Palace Resort - Pailin.
http://www.memoriapalace.com/
Pailin is 85km west of Battambang - 18km from a Cambodia / Thai border crossing.
Memoria Palace is set in lush countryside with bungalow style accommodation.
Beautiful 9m x 19m swimming pool.

BATTAMBANG PROVINCE MAP 2012 with Tourist Sites. Cambodia.

2012-02-05T18:01:00.000+07:00

Shooting Cambodia Photography Tours

2012-01-08T12:08:00.015+07:00

Author of Phnom Penh People - a documentary photo essay of
Phnom Penh street life. Published 2002.
Available at Monument Books. Phnom Penh / Siem Reap
and Cambodian International Airport Book Shops.

UK Documentary stills Photographer Kevin Bolton.
http://www.shootingcambodia.blogspot.com/

Shooting Cambodia Photography Tours are tailored to suit your personal photographic subject preference. Community / Portraiture / Architecture / Landscape / wildlife.
Maximum three people per tour.

Traveling by jeep and boat - kayak and mountain bike on request.
capturing images throughout Battambang Province and beyond.

Adventure day field trips - asianfolio@yahoo.com
Tel: +855 12 870993

Mao of Battambang to Siem Reap boat journey

2012-01-01T14:37:00.002+07:00

Battambang Architecture Walking Map Tour. ka-tours.org

2011-12-25T11:25:00.005+07:00

ka-tours.org has 2 walking maps for you to follow - focusing on the cities architecture.
The central and south maps including editorial can be downloaded free as pdf files.
www.ka-tours.org/MAP2%20bb%20central
www.ka-tours.org/MAP3%20bb%20south

Battambang Province Road Map. www.cambodiamaps.blogspot.com

2011-11-05T13:57:00.012+07:00

free download large file
B DAMBANG500000
http://www.cambodiamaps.blogspot.com/

has free downloads of 5 map series.

Battambang Buzz Issue 4 Oct - Mar 2012

2011-10-31T15:22:00.004+07:00

Available Free in Battambang @

Khmer Delight Restaurant

Sunrise Cafe

Seng Hout Hotel

One More Smoking Pot Restaurant

Bamboo Train Cafe

Gecko Cafe & Gecko Moto Rental

Center Cafe
White Rose Restaurant

La Villa Hotel

Angkor Thom Restaurant

Cappuccino Restaurant

Coconut Cafe

Riverside Balcony Bar

Bus Stop Guesthouse
Colonial Steakhouse
Eden Cafe

Bamboo Train T Shirt

2011-10-31T14:58:00.008+07:00

Available at the
Bamboo Train - Train Station
O'Dambong Village.

Getting to & from Battambang - boat - bus - taxi - motorbike - helicopter.

2011-05-31T12:56:00.011+07:00

To & from Battambang - Boat - Bus –

Taxi – Motorbike - Helicopter

Poipet border crossing to Battambang. Buses depart throughout the day and tickets are $4 - $5. Best to buy a ticket at the bus companies office to avoid being scammed by a tout. Journey is about 3 hours. A seat in a taxi is $6 - journey 2 and half hours.

From Siem Reap to Battambang and visa versa the boat departs at 7am. Tickets are $20. This trip is taken by many as it is picturesque - but can take many hours. The official time is 6 – 7 hours which it is more likely to be during the wet season when the river is higher – and as long as the boat doesn’t have any mechanical problems - which sometimes happens.

However - during the dry season when the river is low and sand banks have to be navigated – the journey will take longer – maybe 2 or 3 hours longer.

The boat will stop for lunch at a half way point for about 30 minutes. Many travellers like to sit on top of the boat for better views and it’s less stuffy than being sat inside for this long journey ( wear a hat and sun cream ).

From Siem Reap the boat crosses the Tonle Sap Lake and then enters the Sangke River travelling upstream to Battambang.

When arriving at Battambang ‘Port of Boats’ ( see Battambang City Map for location ) you will be greeted by a crowd of eager moto-dop’s ready to take you to your Hotel/Guesthouse.

Buses from Siem Reap to Battambang and visa versa. There are many bus companies that run a service between these two cities.

The ticket is $4 - $5 and the journey takes 3 – 3½ hours.

The bus will stop at Sisophon for a 20 minute break.
A seat in a taxi is $6 - 2 and half hours.

Bus companies running a service from Phnom Penh to Battambang and visa versa are plentiful and between them depart on the hour – tickets are $5 or cheaper –

travel time is about 6 hours depending on traffic.

There are also a number of night buses departing as late as midnight –
tickets are $8 or cheaper.

A Taxi from Siem Reap to Battambang is $35 – a seat is about $6 – journey 2 and a half hours.

A Taxi from Phnom Penh to Battambang is $45 – a seat is about $10 – journey 4½ hours

If you rent a motorbike in Phnom Penh ( many rental shops ) the journey to Battambang on route 5 is 294 kilometres – road condition is very good. Foreigners are not allowed to rent motorbikes in Siem Reap – but are allowed to ride them if already rented from elsewhere. This rental ban is apparently to reduce the number of accidents by inexperienced riders.

It is worth noting that Cambodian traffic is almost certainly like none you’ve seen before. If you are riding a motorbike or driving a car – expect the unexpected !

Allow plenty of space in front and make sure you have mirrors. It is now illegal to ride without a crash helmet.

Battambang Airport has not been operating domestic flights for about 10 years. But if you have a fat wallet there are two helicopter companies – Helistar and HNZ.

www.helistarcambodia.com

www.helicopterscambodia.com

PHOTO GALLERY 25. Images. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-28T13:01:00.030+07:00

Railway children. Battambang

Old stone bridge. Battambang

Old iron foot bridge. Battambang

Colonial town houses before renovation

Town house. Battambang

Street 3. Battambang

Phsar Nath Market from east of river

Delivering charcoal. Battambang

Old Governors residence. Built 1907. Battambang

Wat Dum Rai Saw. White Elephant Wat. Battambang

Abandoned colonial villa. Battambang

Railway bridge over the Sangke River

Railway bridge. Battambang

Ruined colonial villa. Battambang

Suspension bridge. Battambang.

Statue at Wat Dum Rai Saw. Battambang

Ferry crossing. Battambang

Giant Buddha Statue - Ek Phnom. Battambang

Central Station platform. Battambang.

Train Station yard. Battambang

"Why" Santa looking bemused as to why he is in an ornamental garden
in Battambang.

Monoron ornamental garden complete with concrete trees. Battambang

Riverside road. Battambang

1907 Traditional Khmer house. Battambang.

Fishing boats on the Sangke River. Battambang.

Penny Farthing - Battambang.

2011-05-27T11:20:00.001+07:00

One of the more unique modes of transport on Battambang's riverfront.

ACTIVITIES - bicycle rental. circus. kayaks. motorbikes. Battambang.

2011-05-23T15:28:00.008+07:00

Batttambang Mountain Bikes

$2 Bike rental and organised tours at Center Cafe street 3.

www.battambangmountainbikes.blogspot.com

Crocodile Farm

Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus http://www.phareps.org/

Green Orange Kayaks new number 017 736166 http://www.fedacambodia.org/

Soksa Bike Countryside Bicycle Tours http://www.soksabike.com/

Today Tours Motorbike Rental

RESTAURANTS - Wine and Dine. Battambang.

2011-05-23T11:22:00.003+07:00

Bamboo Train. Battambang Cambodia

2011-05-19T15:49:00.007+07:00

All aboard – catch it while you can

“Roll up roll up for the magical mystery tour - step right this way”. For many travellers the bamboo train ( Norrie as its known locally ) is a must experience of the bizarre kind when visiting Battambang.

The Norrie made its first appearance in the early 1980s inspired by the small rail vehicles used in the 1960s by the railway workers to carryout repairs. At the time having just emerged from the years of Khmer Rouge lunacy Cambodians were struggling to rebuild their lives and the country was reestablishing its existence. With roads in disrepair coupled with few means of transport such as buses and motorbikes the Norrie was an ingenious and practical solution. With its launch the population now had an important albeit rudimentary transport system able to haul products produce and people at minimum cost. Although flimsy looking the bamboo construction is very strong. Cattle and pigs would be taken to market tons of vegetables and rice would be delivered people could get to clinics and in emergencies it would run at nighttime. To begin with Norries were muscle-powered using poles in much the same way a gondola small petrol engines were introduced after a couple of years. In its heyday during the 80s locals say there were more than a thousand Norries operating along the 600 kilometres of track in the country. Nowadays little more than a hundred are functional in a few provinces commonly running shorter distances than their glory days. A few kilometers south of Battambang is O’Dambang village situated at the side of the worse for wear railway line. Two of us took a tuk-tuk from the centre of Battambang fro $4 return once there we were greeted by the Tourist police. They explained very clearly the itinerary of our twelve kilometre passage to O’Sralau village and the non negotiable fare of $5 each could possibly get it cheaper if there were more passengers.The Norrie is a crude assembly of a bamboo and wooden platform with wooden struts resting on the axles of salvaged railway rolling stock wheels the engine sits at the back with a fan belt attached to a flywheel on the axel. We got on board and sat on well worn cushions at the front the driver cranked up the engine and with a farewell shout of “take care!” from one of the tourist police we trundled on our way. The sense of speed is heightened by the low centre of gravity but in less than a minute we were moving down the line at a fair pace with a velocity over thirty kilometres an hour. The noise from the metal wheels rolling along the uneven rails is quite simply put earsplitting making it impossible to have a conversation along the way earplugs or otherwise improvised earplugs are strongly recommended an mp3 would be a good idea. After a while we came across an abandoned Norrie on the single line tracks on which we were traveling incidentally Cambodia’s entire rail network is single track. Anyhow to the side of tracks was a large pond and our clue was a pair of flip-flops floating at the edge suddenly a man popped up from beneath the water. He was a fisherman who had come down from the next village on his smaller sportier Norrie to check his nets he was returning in the same direction as us so there was no need for him to let us pass. The Norrie protocol is that the lighter laden Norrie gives way to the heavier. In this case which happened a couple of times on our trip the drivers easily lift the platform from the Norrie giving way remove the axles from the tracks and replace the other side. The gentle clickity click sound heard in motion on older railways is more of a sudden clank as the present railway is in a dilapidated state. Work is underway to renovate the nation’s railway with the southern line being work on now. The northern line project which includes Battambang is expected to be ripped up in a few months. Once replaced the new track will spell the demise of the Norrie. Up til now the few trains that ran were traveling at speeds of 15 kilometres an hour therefore giving the Norries plenty of time to get out of the way. After renovation is completed an Australia company ( Toll Holdings ) has a lease to run the new network for thirty years and with the train expected to be able to travel up to 80 kilometres an hour the government has decided to prohibit the Norries future. After an hour of jolting travel we returned to O’Dambang feeling like a couple of cocktails a little shaken and stirred.

What's in the Wat. Battambang. Cambodia

2011-05-16T17:30:00.003+07:00

What’s in the Wat?

Wat Somonas in Battambang province is not altogether a Buddhist Wat. Much of the iconography around the outside and the paintings inside deal with Hindu themes. Each window has a Hindu god or local deity mounted above. The resident monks said they do not know the names of most of these creatures, but you can easily recognize Ganesh the elephant god. Over one doorway is a scene of the well known churning of the sea of milk, and on the western exterior wall is a Ramayana scene with mermaids, crabs, turtles and other animals. In front of the temple vihear is a large garden area. Here there is a fountain featuring the earth goddess Neang Kang Hing, the crocodile, and the forces of evil. At the rear is a creative sculpture of tigers emerging from their cave. The most interesting reason to visit Wat Somonas, which is over a century old, and a little run down, is the paintings that adorn the interior. The unique artwork tells of a strange story with some extraordinary guests. This Buddhist chronicle starts, as usual, at the far right side, where Chumpuu, an ignorant warrior fights against King Bimbisara over a piece of land, and is triumphant by magically changing himself into a naga (seen in the air). In the next scene, Bimbisara asks the Buddha for help, and is subsequently changed into a garuda, known to be able to defeat nagas. Up in the air you can see the garuda conquering the naga. After Bimbisara thanks the Buddha, the conquered Chumpuu goes to see Indra the king of gods (Preah An in Khmer, shown from now on as green, the usual cipher for a god that becomes a person) to ask for more power. Preah An descends to earth and in a display of supremacy defeats Chumpuu in an archery battle shown on the east wall. The again-defeated Chumpuu fetches an elephant to ride in search of the Buddha. But Preah An changes into a giant (south wall) and tells Chumpuu not to ride the elephant, because atop the elephant he would look higher than the Buddha. From then on, Preah An assists as a guide to Chumpuu. First they pass the Thomea market, where maidens bring them food. They then meet (reason unknown) a balding French general. The painting shows the French Air Force in the sky, and the French navy steam ships in the sea. It also depicts a cool-looking Frenchman (the French representative of Battambang at the time) wearing a hat and tie, hands nonchalantly in his pockets. One can’t help wandering if this character had some vain influence over the painting, or was he, as one monk claimed, the artist. On the north wall, Chumpuu meets the four faced Brahma, but refuses to give the respectful sampeah sign with his hands. Brahma changes into the Buddha, but again the arrogant Chumpuu still refuses to sampeah. So they engage in an archery battle (shown behind the Buddha statue). Brahma wins, and Chumpuu is forced to sampeah. They then meet the real Buddha, who shows Chumpuu the horrors of hell, revealing his future if he does not change his ways. Chumpuu is so frightened that he submits and asks to become a monk. He is shown taking of his warriors garb and donning a monk’s robe. The final scene is of Chumpuu’s wife and son accepting that Chumpuu has now become a monk. Wat Somonas can be found eight kilometres outside Battambang on the northwest road to Aek Phnom, it’s on the left next to the Somonas School.

The Well of Shadows. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-16T15:09:00.007+07:00

WSK Battambang

Wat Somrong Knong is located about 6 kilometres north of Battambang, on the east side of the Sangkar River. Situated nearby the Wat is a monument to the Khmer Rouge genocide. This structure is like many others, in that there are skulls and bones encased in a glass edifice. The exception is that it sits on two large tiers, on the front of which there are a number of concrete bas-reliefs depicting the fall of the area to the Khmer Rouge. They graphically portray the atrocities that took place thereafter. On one side of the monument is the following text. - In May 1976, the Khmer Rouge seized the Buddhist temple Wat Somrong Knong, turning it into a prison, and the surrounding area turned into a killing field where 10,008 people were put to death. The prison warden was Son, alias Sot, the executioners were Korlot and Plet. In 1977, Yom became the warden, under whose administration cannibalism was introduced. Poisonous snakes were used to terrify and kill their prisoners, while others had their skulls or chests split open with hoes. This monument portrays still other torturers used by the Khmer Rouge to subjugate district 41 and region 4.

The full extent of Cambodia’s tragedy will never be known. The remains of some of the victims of this genocide may never be recovered, nor their murderers identified. But, the gentle and forgiving Khmer, an energetic and optimistic people, will now walk confidently though the well of shadows to reclaim their ancient culture, and restore this beautiful land to become again, the legendary paradise of celestial Apsara’s. - The old Wat building that was used as a prison looks as though it is a monument in its self to those who were confined there, and is kept lock up. A new Wat is presently being constructed within the grounds.

WSK Battambang

Battambang Google Satellite Map Image

2011-05-16T14:43:00.002+07:00

Battambang Circus School - Phare Ponleu Selpak. Battambang. Cambodia

2011-05-15T17:15:00.008+07:00

PPS Battambang

Battambang’s Big Top - The Circus is in Town

In 1986 while staying at one of the large refugee camps on the Thai border, a group of children took part in a drawing workshop setup by a French visual arts teacher, some of those young Khmer children were to be the founding members of the future circus group. After moving back to Battambang in 1992,

the children were reacquainted with their former arts teacher and an artistic and educational association was founded in 1994, now known as Phare Ponleu Selpak, which means Fire. Life, Art. Many of the families in Anch Anh Village, where the association is based, were living in extreme poverty at the time, so the association focused on social and educational activities such as art, music and theatre

involving the whole community as well as children, some of whom had been abandoned by their parents. Initially starting as a physical education class including martial art and gymnastics, the circus school was opened in 1998 with the help of Khoun Det who had studied at the National Circus School of the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh. A bamboo big top was built at the Anch Anh site, and

attracted about thirty children to the training sessions in the early days, presently over one hundred and thirty are in attendance.

Nowadays the Anch Anh site is more like a campus, including library, art centre, animation lab, theatre group, public school, and circus school with a new Big Top.

The public school, which is part of the association, provides free education to

thirteen hundred children, funded by donations and fund raising. In addition there is a residential centre that opened in 2002, here about thirty children, some victims of human trafficking, others orphans, are provided with their daily needs and

psychological support. They all participate in an artistic activity and attend school. The theatre group have had shows on the Battambang to Phnom Penh train, and in factories and hospitals, bringing awareness about social issues such as domestic violence, child trafficking and Aids prevention.

The children who perform in the tri-weekly circus performances are aged

fourteen to seventeen. Once they become adults, some become teachers at the

centre and part of the three older traveling circus groups, from previous teenage generations. These groups have toured in Europe several times, and also visited Hong Kong Japan and most recently the Philippines.

With an audience of 150, the hour long show started at 7pm inside the Big Top.

To the side of the arena the musicians took their places, playing traditional Khmer instruments, their music accompanying the acts. The well performed show

included jugglers, multiple hoop spinning, high and low acrobatics, partner

balancing, jumping through hoops of fire, and the mischievous unicycle gang, who

manage to find their way into almost every act infusing humour and irony. Some

performances from the circus can be viewed on YouTube – search for Phareps. http://www.phareps.org/

PPS Battambang

City of the Lost Stick. Battambang. Cambodia

2011-05-15T17:07:00.004+07:00

The old Governo's residence built in 1907

City of the Lost Stick

Stick in the mud. Once upon a time, eleven hundred years ago in fact, there lived an impoverished farmhand, whose responsibility it was, to take care of the cows. One day, while herding his cattle he found a fine staff made from rosewood ( Cher Kranhoung ). As time passed, it became apparent that the staff he had luckily discovered, possessed a special power. He merely had to throw the stick in the direction of his cattle, and he could control their movements with great skill. As years passed by he grew thoroughly bored of tending the cows, and began to daydream. He determined he should be the king, and leaving the cows to tend for themselves, he set off to overthrow the then monarch.

With the help of his magic stick, he was victorious in deposing the king, and he settled down to ruling the land. The deposed kings son, the prince, sought retreat in the woods and joined the monk hood, but during his long days of meditation he fell sick and nearly died. In the meantime, the newly self appointed king Dambong, had a dream ( dambong = stick ). His vision stated that his reign would last no longer than seven years, seven months and seven days, and that a holy man riding a white stallion would overthrow him. Obviously worried for his future, he planned on gathering all the holy men in the area with the intention of killing them, and sent a notice inviting them all to his palace.

The sick prince, who was still living in the forest, heard news of the order to attend the court of the king, and as he was now a monk, decided to be present. While travelling to the Capital he met a religious hermit, who insisted that the prince use his white stallion to continue his journey.

The prince rode the horse and soon discovered that his sickness had left him, further to his amazement, the horse took flight, and dressed in his orange robe the prince flew to the city on his new found steed. On seeing the stallion and rider approach, King Dambong anticipated his days of rule were over, with some trepidation he threw the magic staff at the threatening advancing duo. But mystical intervention prevented the sticks power from performing, and King Dambong, knowing he would be conquered, escaped and was never found. The prince took the throne, and all was as it should be. The magic stick was lost, but is said to have landed on the riverbank of the O’Dambong River, near to where the city known as Battambang is now located, ( bat = lost and also disappear, and dambong = stick ).

The English spelling should be Batdambong, as this is how it is pronounced. Strangely enough, this mythical villain is now affectionately known as Ta Dambong ( grandfather stick ), and revered by locals, who sometimes place incense at the foot of a large statue of Ta Dambong, which greets travellers as they arrive in Battambang on the Phnom Penh road. Between 1795 and 1907, both Battambang, and Siem Reap Provinces were under Siamese control. Battambang was governed by the Chavfea Baen family, who were appointed by the Thai king. During the early 1970s, Tauch Chhuong, a young Cambodian school teacher, interviewed many of the senior citizens living in and around Battambang about the years of forced occupation. This research resulted in the publication in 1974 of – Battambang during the time of the Lord Governor, published in English in 1994. The following, details a few of the facts gathered by Tauch Chhuong.

Towards the end of the 1800s, the then Governor held an auction for the rights to sell alcohol, it was bought buy a Chinese man named Tang Sea, also known as Sri Piphotti. He bought the right to have the only bar in town, and he was also able to arrest and punish anyone who produced liquor that he felt would cause him to lose profit. He produced a brew made from rice and palm sugar, this was the commoners swill, while the wealthy drank imported French liquor. In those days, Battambang had an abundance of fish, so people never ate small fish as they do today, small fish were used to make fish oil, or fed to slaves, the wealthy land owners had many slave workers. Crocodile meat was as popular as pork is today, and easily found in the markets. Beef was not eaten, as the oxen and water buffaloes were used for farming, and the penalty for stealing these working animals was instant death upon arrest. Much like today, dirt roads connected the villages, these and the canals/rivers were use for transportation. There were no cars, and people traveled by foot or boat, ox or buffalo cart, horse, and elephant. Ox cart was seven days to Bangkok, but two days by elephant with a boat connection from Prachinburi. People rarely traveled to Phnom Penh by road as the trip was easier by boat. It is recounted that there were only four bicycles at the time, with wood rimmed wheels and solid rubber tires, and they were owned by traders who would draw large crowds whenever they road them.

There were many types of punishment, these included a ladder type device up to two metres in length, that was strung around the neck, preventing someone from traveling too far. For interrogation, a lever was gradually tightened around the head, until a persons eyes popped out, unless they confessed. Flogging was common, and so was a seven kilo iron ball and chain attached to the ankle. Execution was beheading by sword, it is reported that the governor owned a extremely sharp sword, named the Black Lady. Once this sword was drawn from its scabbard, it had to be use to execute no less than two people. One man who was sentenced to rendezvous with this sword was allowed to stay with his family, until such time that another victim was found to join him. He was repairing the roof of the family house, when a messenger arrived to deliver the fateful news that an equally unlucky individual had been found. The unfortunate man was so terrified that he fell of his roof, he was then taken to have his head chopped off, on the east side of the river near the present railway.

The Lord Governor lived in a fortified compound which has since been demolished. He had dozens of beautiful topless dancing women, who waited on him hand and foot. Over thirty of these women became his secondary wives, including the daughter of Piphotti, who had the concession to sell alcohol.

Throughout this oppressive feudal system, the commoners dealt with their despair by creating entertainment. They had their singing, dancing, theatre and many popular games, gambling was legal and included boat races, cock fighting and turtle fighting. In 1907, the French colonialists secured control of both Battambang and Siem Reap provinces.

Ox Cart Ride. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-15T16:01:00.004+07:00

Country tour. Battambang

Ox Cart Ride - are we there yet ?

Some time ago I saw a small wooden painted sign outside a house on the road to Ek Phnom Temple a few kilometres north of Battambang. The sign was advertising ox cart rides and I took a photo of it intending to try this out one day. I roped in resident expat travel writer Ray Zepp to join me on this one and off we headed to the meeting point at the eleventh century ruins of Ek Phnom Temple.

We arrived at three in the afternoon to avoid the worst of the days heat having necessarily pre arranged the trip. Our seriously retro 11^th century transportation had just arrived as we pulled in on a sleek 21^st century scooter. At this point we both wandered what the hell we were doing - the cart didn’t look comfortable at all and we knew this was going to be a bumpy jarring experience.

An English speaking guide was there to greet us and encouraged us to climb aboard the Raw-teht Koh (ox cart) as I’m sure he could sense our second thoughts about the whole thing. There was a thin straw mat to sit on and we fidgeted about trying to find the best seating position which became obviously to sit with legs outstretched - the guide sat on the side rails of the wooden frame.

Off we trundled down the tarmac road at not too much more than a fast walk pace. It was clearly noticed that a few well placed cushions would make this a lot more comfortable and also apparent that this may not be an excursion for a family - as the side of the cart mostly open and if a child was to put his or her arm or leg though the side it would make direct contact with the large wood spoked wheel - resulting in a nasty end to the day.

Of course travelling at this speed you notice more to the sides of the road than being on a moto for example and gazing into the gardens and at the traditional wooden houses along the way we began to feel more relaxed in our rattling pen.

We should have prepared somewhat before setting out I thought - a few cold beers in a bag of ice - a bottle of Bombay and tonics perhaps and if only we had cushions! After a few kilometres we turned of the even tarmac road and onto a pothole-rutted dirt road - not so good but this was where the fun started. If you dare you can try your hand at steering the beasts - the Khmer handler of the cart will stand behind you and tell you the Khmer words he uses to steer and stop. This was of course amusing and Ray and I are both now skilled and knowledgeable ox cart handlers available for hire if you happen to buy a couple of cows and a cart.

After an hour we had returned to the giant Buddha statue at Ek Phnom - the organizer telephoned to see if everything had gone as planned - I said no problem but advised that with future punters he may want to put cushions in the cart - “oh I have - didn’t they give them to you ?” was the reply.

The ox cart ride is $3 per person and should be booked one day in advance. Plus a home-stay can be organized at nearby Guava Grove community for $12 a night including breakfast,lunch and dinner. Contact Mr. Sophorn 012326577.

Kayaking - Go with the Flow. Green Orange Kayaks. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-15T15:40:00.008+07:00

Go with the Flow

Sangke River Battambang.

As the kayaks were being lowered by rope down the grassy embankment of the Sangkar River, I noticed there weren’t any life jackets to be seen. I asked the organizer about this, and was told that as it was the Pchum Ben holiday, the man with the key to the kitchen was on holiday, so they couldn’t get the lifejackets. Of course this was all very Cambodian and so we accepted the situation for what it was, we went with the flow as such. Luckily the sea kayaks are not at all tippy and very stable; they are a sit-on-top design with the entire kayak acting as a flotation device. The river level was about half its capacity and calm, the flow was not strong so we had to paddle all the way. An adventurous time to do this tour would be when the mountain rains have filled the narrow river and it’s flowing like a torrent, all you’d have to do is steer. But you’d want to make sure the kitchen isn’t locked. Green Orange Kayaks – so called because of the famous Battambang Province green skin oranges was established in 2009. It’s run by FEDA, a local NGO who provide free education at a school to the rear of the Green Orange Cafe which is where the kayaks are. This is located about eight kilometres on the southwest river road to Wat Banan, on the outskirts of Battambang. The kayak trip is eleven kilometres back to the city, as it meanders its way through the Cambodian countryside. The faint tinkle of instruments can be heard from the five Wats that are nearby on route, and shrieking screams of hello-bye-bye-hello from kids on the banks and swimming in the water. Stopping off at some of the interesting Wats is a nice way to rest your shoulders, and should you be staying a few days then Around Battambang by Ray Zepp is a must guide book. It contains detailed information about the history of the Wats and other sites to visit, available locally. The leisurely down river voyage took us two hours, passing riverside vegetable terraces, traditional bamboo houses and fishermen. The clouds followed us all the way that afternoon, and opened up just as we arrived at a Battambang watering hole for a few well deserved cold ones. At present they have two double kayaks and one single. The price is $12 per person, which goes towards the running of the school.

Green Orange Kayaks new telephone number
Tel 017 736166 http://www.fedacambodia.org

Learn a Little Khmer

2011-05-15T15:25:00.000+07:00

Please – som Fish – tray Pork - set j’rook Chicken - set moa-ún
Beef - set goh

Barbecued – ang Fried – char Steamed – jom hoy Rice – bai

Chilli – m’tay

Salad – saa lat Red Wine – sraa kra hom White Wine – sraa sor

Food – m’hope

Bottle – dorp Glass – gai-o Fruit – plai cher Vegetable – bon lai Make - twer

Spicy – hull Ice – tuk gor Put - dak Large – thom Toothpick – cher juk tmin

Small – doy’it Plate – jaan Have – me’un Water – tuk Lime – kroach ch’maa

MSG – be’jayng No – atay Yes – bart Want – jong More – tee-ut I - khnyom

‘how much ‘? – tlai pon’maan Salt - ombel Pepper – m’rik Garlic – ktum sor

Delicious – chn’yang ‘the bill please’ – som kit loy Thanks – or kOOn

Turn right - bot sadam Turn left - bot ch’wain Go straight - dou drong

Stop - chup Bridge - spee-un Expensive - t’lai Cheap - talc

Cigarette - ba’ray Yesterday - m’sao min Today - t’nai nih
Tomorrow - sa-aik Cold - groh-che Hot - g’dao Day - t’nai
Rain - plee’ung Happy - sop’bai

Prasat Basseat - Road to Ruin. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-15T15:22:00.002+07:00

Road to Ruin

Destination Prasat Basseat, otherwise known as the ruined ruin. Head north out of Battambang on the eastside river road, after a few kilometres there is a mosque on the right, and then a little further on is Norea village, turn right here and continue straight. This is a graded dirt road that runs through small hamlets and rice fields, reaching Basseat village after about twelve kilometres. The ruined ruin is on the right in front of the modern day Wat. The Khmer Rouge demolished most of the ruins to build a dam. Only one of the Prasat ruins is in standing condition, the others being a pile of stones, or walls precariously leaning over resting on other dodgy stonework. The French explorer Aymonier, described in 1901 that Basseat was well cared for and covered with beautiful sculptures, one of the walls measured two hundred metres on one side. The pre-Angkorian structures date back to 1036, and once completed in 1042, there were five towers surrounding the inner sanctuary. Elderly locals have confirmed the Khmer Rouge involvement in ruining the ruins. Strange happenings deterred them from completing the demolition, apparently their machine guns and artillery would not function from the temple compound, and ghosts warned them to leave the remaining temples alone. If the ghosts were guarding the Prasat then they were well and truly sleeping on the job, the Khmer Rouge had a good head start before being frightened away. As if all this wasn’t enough for the hard done by Prasat, in very recent years a local wielding a brush decided it would be a nice idea to paint parts of the structure blue and yellow. Some of the bas-reliefs on the lintels above doorways have been given this baffling colourful paint job, luckily someone, or maybe a ghost put an end to the unauthorized renovation work, and the colours are starting to fade with weathering. Rumour has it the over-enthusiastic rogue artist has moved to Siem Reap to seek work on a larger commission. Behind the collapsed structure there is evidence of the larger one mentioned by early explorers, but only a few scattered doorways remain. An alternative route back to Battambang can be taken along pleasant country tree lined lanes. Double back just a couple of kilometres to Wat Tapon, turn left to Wat Rokar, turn right to Wat O Meuni, and then on to Anlong Vil. Anlong Vil is a village on route five, the main road to Phnom Penh, from here it’s about four kilometres back to Battambang.

Ek Phnom - Discovering the downstream Roads. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-15T15:14:00.003+07:00

Ek Phnom

Discovering the downstream roads

On this trip we headed down river out of Battambang on the north west bank of the Sangke. I was making my way to Ek Phnom, an eleventh century Angkorian ruin, but I knew there was much more to see along the way. First place of interest is the long abandoned Pepsi-Cola bottling plant. Allegedly Coca Cola had an officially authorized monopoly in the 60s to produce soft drinks in Thailand, so Pepsi constructed their factory here, and exported the rival product to the thirsty Thais, as well as other neighboring countries. All went well until the KR gain control in 1975, the factory closed of course, and the Khmer Rouge used it now again to make ice. The deserted building still contain machinery and thousands of bottles stacked in crates, you can freely walk into the compound where one building is used to bottle water. As expected it’s an eerie experience, and the main building still sports the Pepsi logo. As we continued we saw white disk shapes drying on bamboo racks at the side of the road. These are made from pummel rice, and used to make the fresh or fried spring rolls that are on many of the local menus. A few kilometres on is the crocodile farm, turn left at the ILDO sign. Admission is $1, and a slightly worrying encounter, worrying because the entire visit is unsupervised. We were pointed in the general direction of the entrance, up some steps, and along an elevated concrete gangway with a railing on only one side. On the railed side, lots of crocs with a couple of pools, on the other side, bunkers with straw where the crocs sleep. This was during the morning, and a few of the 170 crocs were still in the open roofed bunkers, if you loose your balance and fall in, I guess you’re a welcome feed. I’ve been told that crocs rarely attack people on land, only in the water where they feel more in control, wouldn’t want to test that. I had alligator years ago in New Orleans, and thought I’d buy a kilo to BBQ. Surprisingly the owner told us he doesn’t sell the meat, customers come to his farm and take off with a live taped up croc in the boot of their car, or on the back seat, if it’s too large then he delivers. Crocs are weighed and sold at $5 a kilo, the only meat worth eating is on the tail, the hide being dried and used to make goods. After half an hour, we arrive at Prasat Ek Phnom. The eleventh century Temple is one of the major tourist attractions of the province. It doesn’t compare with Angkor Wat in terms of grandeur or carvings, but it offers a peaceful atmosphere in the countryside, surrounded by trees and lily ponds. Strolling around the quiet in the peace of the Cambodian outback can be a very relaxing experience. Especially in the early morning, or late afternoon, when the sunlight filters through from the sides. Eak Phnom is a favourite picnic spot for residents of Battambang. This tradition has been in place for many years. A French mission stated in 1881 that the entire population of Battambang went out to Ek Phnom for the Khmer New Year celebrations. At the base of the temple you may find a fortune teller, for 1000 riel you put a deck of cards against your forehead, and while you concentrate on your future, you cut the cards with a small wooden twig. Your fortune is then read from that card, often related to some of the Buddha stories. An inscription on the eastern entrance states that the temple was built in 1027, in the reign of Suryavarmen (1002-1050). This dates it before the construction of

Angkor Wat, making it a Hindu or Brahminist temple rather than a Buddhist one. Visiting the ruins costs two dollars. On the east side of the central sanctuary is an excellent rendition of the famous Churning of the Sea of Milk. Above that caving is a scene from the Ramayana, a weeping Sita is guarded by two female demons, the monkey god Hanuman holds out Rama’s ring as a token of his devotion. Bring binoculars if you have them, as some of the carvings are high up. Also you may be lucky, and spot the jacana, or lily trotter, a bird that has large webbed feet that allow it to walk on top of lotus leaves. In front of the ruins is the modern day Wat Ek Phnom, completed in 2003. It is a multi coloured structure that is in stark contrast to the ruined Prasat in the background. The present day pagoda has one of the most complete collections of Buddhist wall and ceiling paintings in the country. There are scenes all over the exterior, and a triple row of paintings on the interior, many of which are not seen in other pagodas. Just before entering the Ek Phnom grounds, there’s a large sign on the right which says, Welcome to Kouk Doung Community Based Eco Tourism. This resort has been open for seven months, and is run by a local women’s development NGO. It’s located about five kilometres beyond Ek Phnom, stay on the road once inside the grounds. The locals are happy to give directions, which is necessary, as there are a few twists and turns along the way, and only the one sign. Once there it’s chill out time. There is a large lake, a number of thatched gazeboes, and nothing but countryside 360 degrees. Fishing in the lake is free, but any catch must be returned, and there are some peddle boats which are rented for 5000 riel an hour. The restaurant serves such items as snails, frog, duck, chicken and fish for about a $1.50 a dish, well worth a visit. We now traveled back along the main road towards Battambang, turning left over a stream after about six kilometres. This took us to K’dul village, this where the famous Psah Prahoc (fish paste market) is to be found. You almost get a whiff of the market activities before you arrive. This fish paste is a high protein favourite of almost all Khmers, it has a very pungent odour that puts most westerners off the idea of tasting it. Although an acquired flavour for the western palette, it’s much the same as a block of Stilton having the Khmers turning their noses up. Prahoc is produced from vats of fermenting fish, and used in all manner of ways in Khmer cooking. As well as the Prahoc, some of which is exported to neighbouring countries, there is dried and smoked fish for sale. About five hundred metres, to the right of the market on the riverbank, is an interesting family run boat building business. The hardwood fishing boats are about six metres in length, and cost $500. From the market we crossed the iron bridge over the Sangke River to the west side, and headed back to Battambang. The road is lined with trees on both sides, making the journey pleasant in the shade. After a few kilometres we arrived at Wat Somrong Knong. There is a genocide monument here, skulls and bones in a large glass case, much like the many others around the country. What makes this one different however, are the detailed and often explicit bas- relief's around the two tiers of the monument, depicting the fall of Battambang to the KR in 1975. The use of the Wat as a prison, and the atrocities committed by the KR. Our final stop was at a roadside sticky rice vendor. The rice is pounded and heat, mixed with black beans and coconut, and then left to cool and set inside short cuts of bamboo pole. The result is an inexpensive tasty traditional Cambodian dessert.

Crocodile Farm

rice discs drying

Back of Beyond - upstream roads. Phnom Sampeou.Battambang. Cambodia

2011-05-15T15:06:00.005+07:00

Back of Beyond - upstream roads

It was mid morning as we headed off down the south river road on the west bank out of Battambang. I hadn’t felt like hiring a motorbike as I wanted to feel free to look around along the journey, so I was the pillion passenger on a guide’s moto. We were traveling along the country roads and side lanes that would take us to Phnom Sampeou and beyond. First stop was just a few kilometres out of town at Wat Kor Village. There are a couple of ‘ancient houses’, so called because they are ninety and a hundred years old. There are very few of these old house left round the area, and the owners are delighted to have guests stay overnight.

Unlike the modern Khmer house that is built on concrete pillars, these old dwellings have large round solid wooden pillars, and a variety of hard woods that make up the floors and verandahs. One of the houses is owned by Ms Bun Roeurng tel 012 363174 $10 a night. It was built in 1920 and is set in a large garden adorned with trees, the house is twenty eight by eleven metres and is elevated by no less than thirty six wooden pillars. The roof is tiled with antique Naga scale shaped tiles, with no inside ceiling, and the walls are woven bamboo with a thick plaster covering. The spacious guest room is at the front of the property, with plenty of period wooden furniture to suit the locale. During the Khmer Rouge regime the property was used for threshing rice and the home as a communal kitchen. Another nearby house built in 1907 also has a large room for rent $17 per night - tel Miss Borey 012 1965156.

During the dry season, the river is attaining its lowest level, and the rich soil of the riverbanks are utilized by the locals for crop cultivation. All along the river you can see terraced plots of vegetables such as morning glory, sweet corn, cabbage, eggplant and cucumber. Irrigation is supplied by pumping water from the river, this continues until the river starts to rise, which can happen quite rapidly during the rainy season once the clouds start to break over the distant Pailin hills, and the waters collect in the meandering Sangkar. As we continue we stopped off at a fruit farm. The main harvesting is December to April, including mango, jackfruit, lychee and oranges, a freshly opened jackfruit is a treat.

Further along the river road we came across what my guide described as a hanging bridge. There are two of these suspension style bridges a few kilometres apart, they’re about a metre and a half wide and quite fun as they undulate and sway a little as you cross. Now eight kilometres out of town still on the west side of the river, we stopped off at the Green Orange Café, named after the famous sweet green peel oranges of Battambang province. The café is near the side of the road, and the profits goes towards running FEDA, a local NGO run school which is to the rear of the property. Green Orange Kayaks was established in 2009 using very stable sit-on-top style kayaks. They run an eleven kilometre trip going with the flow back to Battambang. The flyer reads – Go on a beautiful river voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy past riverside terraces, traditional bamboo nuts and several temples. Get the chance to experience Cambodia away from dusty roads, and observe traditional fishing and farming techniques. This half day excursion costs $12, with profits going to FEDA.

Being thirsty we stopped at a roadside stand for refreshing coconut. A few metres from where we were sitting a cruel adolescent had placed a dog in an upturned basket, not any larger than the dog, and then placed a heavy potted plant on top of the basket. This caused the distressed animal to howl and whimper as the teenager looked on, and the roadside vendors seemed unaffected by this annoyance. This reminded me of the tortured gecko in the Penh many years ago. A young lad had a long piece of string with a gecko tied to the end by its tail, he was swinging it high above his head, and then low, almost to the ground, much like a cowboy would play with a lasso. The hopeless gecko seemed petrified, with its legs and feet firmly outstretched, doomed to whatever its keeper had in store, maybe the boy thought the gecko enjoyed being swung around, as he did go as far as not letting it hit the ground. Anyway, at least the dog wasn’t in the air on the end of a rope by its tail, and having had enough of trying to talk over the noise, we went on to the winery.

Chan Thai Chhoeung Winery is about fourteen kilometres up stream from Battambang. The owners, who are a local Khmer family, first planted vines imported from California in 1999, and produced there first sweet red in 2004. Nowadays they don’t produce a sweet red, favouring a dry red, a slightly sweeter rose, and also a brandy. There are over four thousand vines on the plantation, and Cambodia’s first pure grape wine, bottled as Phnom Banan grape wine is widely available throughout the country. There is a gazebo at the entrance with a wine tasting area, so don’t be afraid to pop in ( note - you can buy the wine for $6 or $7 in Battambang stores - at the winery they charge $15 ! ). Rotana, my guide, now turned of onto the country back lanes, we were heading for Phnom Sampeou. Sampeou means junk boat, and the hill is steeped in Cambodian traditional tales and history.

There is a stairway which climbs sharply up the side of the hill, but it’s easier to walk up the road to the left of the stairs. At the top of the road is a shrine dedicated to victims of several killing caves, during the Khmer Rouge regime victims were thrown down the shafts, sometimes having their throats cut first. Some say there were separate shafts for men, women and children, gruesome stuff. In one cave can be seen arm and leg bones, and in another skulls, now placed in cages as previously unbalanced tourists were taking them as souvenirs. Robust footwear is required for exploring the caves and negotiating the rocky paths, the largest has a reclining Buddha, and theatrical plays were staged there before the 70s. Expect to pay a $2 tourist fee if you venture atop the Phnom, worth it as the 360 views are spectacular.

Phnom Sampeou is known to all Khmers as one of the most common sites in folk legend, this is the tale of Neang Rumsay Sok. Reachkol, son of rich merchants, is taken to a hermit who matches him to be married to Neang Rumsay Sok, to whom he gives a magic jeweled pin to tie up her hair. But Reachkol falls in love with Neang Meka and marries her instead of Rumsay Sok, and has a son by her. After three years of marriage, Reachkol runs away from his wife and rejoins Rumsay Sok. Meka sends her faithful crocodile Atonn to catch the departing boat of Reachkol and Rumsay Sok. Seeing the ferocious crocodile, Reachkol throws down a cage of chickens to appease Atonn, then a cage of ducks. But Atonn is not appeased and continues to menace the boat. The climax of the story is reached when Rumsay Sok lets down her hair, dropping the magic pin into the water. All around that spot the land dries up, and the boat comes to rest on one high rocky spot. The crocodile comes to rest on another dry rock and dies. Reachkol and Rumsay Sok live happily ever after. At dusk there is a spectacular sight as a cloud of bats take to the sky on their nightly hunt for insects from the Phnom Sampeou area. On our way back to town we stopped at the Kamping Pouy reservoir, this was constructed during the KR regime, thousands died building the enormous length of dam. Today it’s a popular picnic area, and home to many species of birds.

folk legend courtesy Around Battambang by Ray Zepp.

Temple Hill and the Magic Cave. Wat Banan. Battambang. Cambodia.

2011-05-15T14:36:00.002+07:00

Temple Hill and the Magic Cave

Reaching the top at Wat Banan

Battambang is surrounded by lush countryside and numerous places of interest to visit, all within close proximity, and Wat Banan was the choice for a recent Sunday afternoon excursion. I use a bicycle to get around Battambang, which even for Cambodia’s second largest city, has a light traffic situation, and is as flat as a pancake, leaving the river bridges as the only humps to go over. But the trip to Wat Banan was a lot more than I wanted to tackle with peddle power, this meant either a motodop at $5 round trip / tuk tuk $10 round trip, or hiring a motorbike.

Today Tours is a bike rental shop located on street 1 ½ , yes…. street 1 ½, which logically runs parallel to streets 1 and 2, but other than that makes no sense at all. Then of course there’s street 2 ½ that runs between streets 2 and 3, this is certainly a city that can’t say it doesn’t do things by half’s. Anyway, Today Tours is at the Bridge end of the street, and has 125’s for $5, and 250’s for $10 – 092 999934, passport is required as deposit. Another rental option could be Gecko Moto, which is below the Gecko Cafe on the corner of street 3 in the centre of town, 125’s - $7 and $8.

Wat Banan is 22 kilometres from Battambang, making it an easy daytrip. Leave Battambang on the southwest side of the river on route 155. Along the way there are opportunities to stop off at one or more of the six twentieth century Wat’s, or take a drink break at a village on route. A recommended pit stop would be Wat Chhoe Teal, named so after a tree, The tree has local economic importance, as the resin is used to repair leaking boats around the country. Despite being illegal to cut down, those in high places have turned a blind eye, and this has left many locals without the livelihood they relied upon. This Wat is located about half way, and set back a little on the river side of the road. Go through the maroon archway that leads to the river, here you’ll find a number of drink stands and seating next to a large tree, providing shade on the Sangkar riverbank.

Henri Mouhot, the French explorer who rediscovered Angkor Wat in the 1850s, traveled to Battambang along this river, here he describes the point where the Sangkar and the smaller tributary O Dambong split: Having arrived at a place where the river divides in two, we enter a narrow stream that comes from the southwest, and which, twisting like a snake, flows with the tranquility of a torrent. This watercourse, on which Battambang is built, is at times only twelve metres wide; branches of trees plunge into our boat, and enormous monkeys hanging on the branches stop their games to watch us pass. From time to time a crocodile, rudely awakened by the splash of the oars or the singing of the rowers, throws him self from the bank where he was sleeping on the wet soil, and disappears under the water.

The trip to Wat Banan takes a leisurely forty minutes, to the right you will see the lotus plant shaped spires of the Wat rising above the trees around the phnom ( hill ). The entrance is a few metres past the iron bridge on the left, this crosses the Sangkar to the east side, and could be an alternative route back to Battambang, either on the winding scenic river road or the main road set back a few hundred metres away. In the entrance courtyard area at the bottom of the phnom there are three or four restaurants, and a tourist ticket booth ( $2 ) before the steps ascend, grab some refreshments before you climb. The sharp incline of about three hundred stones to the top takes no prisoners, and is unforgiving. Most seemed to be taking a couple of rest breaks during the ordeal, and the locals were exclaiming the word ‘hot’ many times, meaning tired. Wat Banan is made up of four temple towers, with a further one in the centre. The original temple dates back to 1050, and the reign of king Udayadityavarman I as a Hindu temple, later it was rebuilt using the same stones, as a Buddhist temple, around 1219, during the reign of king Jayarvarman VII. Banan is built from sandstone and laterite, laterite being the fashionable material used so much nowadays for bars and hotel receptions in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, it’s a light brown sediment rock with lots of small holes within it. The towers are impressive and basically intact, if not a little shaky looking, but many of the carvings are headless, having been plundered.

In the 1800s we know from Henri Mouhot that there were numerous Buddha statues inside the temples, and a huge guardian statue at the entrance. Now, due to looting there are only half a dozen in the centre spire, where devout Buddhists come to receive a blessing from the resident monk, who literally hangs out in a hammock during the day, listening to the radio while waiting for the next devotees, and why not. A replica of the guardian statue was positioned at the base of the phnom in 2000. It is not uncommon to find an adventurous family having hauled up their pots of curry and rice, and bags full of food and drinks, boasting a picnic and enjoying the views atop this national monument, as was the case for a couple of groups the day I was there, so don’t feel left out, take some sandwiches. At the bottom of the phnom is a colourful water lily covered baray, a few picnic gazebos line one side of this man made lake, which may have been where the laterite was excavated as large pieces can be seen exposed around the edge of the banks.

Former Anti aircraft gun at Wat banan

Little known, and therefore often unvisited, is the magic cave round the side of the phnom. The old name for the cave was Cave of Sacred Water, it is said that drinking the water that drips from a stalactite will bring knowledge of the past, present, and future. The present name means Walls of Gold, but alas, there is no gold, so what does this cave have apart from two dubious names. Well, there is a magical air within the cave, as a beam of light enters from a opening in the ceiling, and its cool surroundings make it a wonderful retreat from the heat of the day.

On the way back to Battambang on the west side of the river, there is a winery on the right, called Chan Thai Chhoeung, about nine kilometres from Wat Banan. They welcome visitors, and have wine tasting table near the entrance to the vineyard. The red wine is quite sweet, but a bottle would make a unique souvenir, although it would be more suitable for making a pitcher of sangria, especially with the abundance of local fresh fruit that’s available, cheers.